Too much transmission fluid symptoms/ how to check A/T fluid level without a dipstick

  Transmission fluid is the lifeblood of transmission. It ensures the smooth running of the engine and keeps the   transmission temperature   down since gear usually generates alot of heat. but what happens if you put too much fluid in the transmission? What are the signs of an overfilled automatic transmission? leakage of transmission seals puddles of transmission fluid underneath the vehicle foamy transmission oil transmission overheating  failure to shift properly, causing a jerking sensation what are the consequences of an overfilled automatic transmission? oil starvation  reduced lubrication reduced cooling increased frictions damage to parts damage to seals increased wear what are the signs of overfilled manual transmission? leakage of transmission seals puddles of transmission oil underneath the vehicle puddles of transmission oil inside the vehicle foamy transmission oil  tansmission overheating clutch chatter or slipping when applying the clutch difficulty pushing in the clutc

Engine unable to start but cranks

If the fuel pump is not delivering adequate fuel pressure and volume to the engine, the engine may not start or run properly. Low fuel pressure can cause hard starting, a rough idle, misfiring, hesitation and stalling. No fuel pressure will prevent the engine from starting, or will cause the engine to quit running if the fuel pump fails while driving.
Fuel injected engines are very sensitive to fuel pressure as well as fuel volume. Low pressure will cause starting and driveability problems. A pump that can deliver adequate pressure but not enough volume may allow the engine to start and idle normally, but it will starve the engine for fuel and cause a loss of power when the engine is under load, accelerating hard or cruising at highway speeds.
Engine Cranks But Will Not Start
A dead fuel pump can prevent an engine from starting, but so can a problem with the ignition system or the engine itself (such as a broken timing belt).
The first thing to check would be spark. This can be done by connecting a spark plug tester to a plug wire while the engine is cranking. The tester must be grounded to the engine block for a good electrical connection.
CAUTION: Do not touch any of the spark plug wires while the engine is being cranked or you may get a bad shock!
If an engine has a coil-on-plug ignition system, and it is possible to remove one of the coils, do so and place a spark plug in the end of the coil. Then place the coil and plug so the plug is touching metal on the engine.
If the ignition system is working properly, you should see a series of sparks while cranking the engine. No spark would indicate an ignition problem such as a bad crankshaft position sensor, ignition module or ignition coil.
Next, check the timing belt if the engine has an overhead camshaft and rubber timing belt. The belt is usually enclosed inside a plastic cover on the end of the engine. Removing a couple of screws from the cover and pulling the cover back should allow you to see the belt. If the belt looks okay, and turns when the engine is cranked, compression is probably not your problem. Timing belts can jump time if they loosen up or if the cogs on the underside of the belt become damaged. It’s also possible for the overhead camshaft to seize or break if the engine has run low on oil or has overheated. But if the cam gear turns when the engine is cranked, that’s probably not the problem either.
CAUTION: Keep your fingers away from the belt and gears while cranking the engine!

If ignition and compression are both OK, that leaves a lack of fuel as the most likely cause of the no start. But is it the fuel pump or something else?
Possible causes of a fuel-related no start include:
1. A dead fuel pump (could be the pump, pump relay pump fuse or a fault in the pump wiring circuit)
2. A plugged fuel filter
3. Low fuel pressure (weak pump, restricted fuel line, low voltage to the pump or a defective fuel pressure regulator)
If the pump runs and generates normal pressure to the engine, but the engine still does not start, the problem may be:
1. No voltage to the fuel injectors (blown injector fuse or bad relay)
2. No pulse signal to the injectors from the PCM (no crank or cam sensor input to the PCM, or a bad driver circuit in the PCM, or a wiring harness problem)
3. A shorted fuel injector (robs voltage from the other injectors so none will operate) 
Basically check the following and ensure they are correct or in good order

  • Ensure there is water (coolant) in the radiator

    • Check oil level, ensure no sign of mixture of coolant with it.
    • Check engine-valve timing and ensure is correct
    • Do compression test, to ensure that engine have adequate compression for starting 
    • Check a relay box, ensure that the main engine relay fuse do not blow.
    • Check the nock sensor wire
    • Check the cold start switch and its wires
    • Ensure there's no pressure leakages from inlet system (inlet manifold and nostle holes)
    • Ensure that nostle sprays, not dropping
    • Also check to disconnet a security timer, if there's. Infact this should be the first step 
    • Check that all the earth wires are intact.


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